VIPs swarmed the Miami Convention Center Wednesday for the 23rd edition of Art Basel Miami Beach, which comes at a time of angst and uncertainty in the fine art market.

While the moneyed collectors and elite gallerists at the big art fairs in Miami Beach, the pulse of Miami Art Week beats just as hard a few miles inland in Wynwood.

The art world makes its annual southern pilgrimage December 2-7, and for seven days, Miami becomes the proving ground where reputations are minted, careers launched, and the very definition of contemporary art is contested. Here’s your guide.